Beginner's Guide to Moab Climbing
Welcome to the beginner's guide to Moab climbing! Moab, Utah is considered one of the top climbing destinations in the world, offering a vast array of climbing options ranging from moderate sport climbs to challenging multi-pitch routes. Here's everything you need to know to get started on your Moab climbing adventure:
Choosing Your Climbing Area
Moab offers an abundance of climbing areas, so it's important to choose the one that suits your needs and abilities. Here are our top recommendations:
Wall Street
Wall Street is a popular climbing area located just outside of Moab. It's perfect for all levels of climbing ability, offering mostly single pitch routes with grades ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. Climbs are a mix of trad and sport routes all of which are immediately accessible off the side of the road. Think belaying off your tailgate!
Ice Cream Parlor
The Ice Cream Parlor is a crag in Kane Creek on the opposite side of the Colorado River as Potash. The Ice Cream Parlor has some of the best introductory crack climbs in the region as well as more advanced classics.
Indian Creek
Indian Creek is a broader area with many cragging areas located about an hour's drive southwest from Moab. Its stunning beauty and incredible climbing make the trip worthwhile. The area is known for its challenging crack climbs, the world over, with grades ranging from 5.9 to 5.14. This area is best for experienced climbers as most all routes are steep, sustained and require traditional protection.
Gear You'll Need
When it comes to climbing gear, safety is the most important thing to consider. Here's a list of gear you'll need to bring:
Climbing shoes
Harness
Helmet
Rope
Quickdraws and/or rock protection including a wide selection of cams
Carabiners
Belay Device
Chalk bag and chalk
Food and plenty of water
It's important to note that if you're climbing with a group and none of you have experience with leading, it may be a good idea to hire a guide or take a class before venturing out to the Moab climbing areas.
Where to Stay
There are plenty of camping options in Moab, with many locations just minutes from popular climbing areas. If you prefer to stay indoors, there are also several hotels and vacation rentals available. We recommend booking early, as accommodations tend to fill up quickly during peak season (spring and fall).
FAQs
Q: Is Moab climbing suitable for beginners?
A: Definitely! There are many climbing areas suitable for beginners in Moab, such as Wall Street and the Ice Cream Parlor. But to fully take advantage of the area a solid base skill-set will be helpful as well as some fitness. The majority of climbs in and around Moab are steep and sustained.
Q: Do I need to have my own climbing gear?
A: Yes, you'll need to bring at least some of your own gear, such as a personal kit of gear specific to you.. However, many outdoor gear stores in Moab offer sales and in some cases rental options if you're unable to bring your own equipment. Guided trips often also can provide some gear such as ropes.
Q: Is it safe to climb in Moab?
A: As with any climbing area, precautions should be taken to ensure your safety. It's important to have the proper gear and training before attempting any climbs. We recommend hiring a guide or taking a class if you're a beginner.
Of particular note, the rock around Moab is composed of soft sandstone, which becomes brittle when wet and should be avoided until dry to avoid it from breaking or causing rockfalls.
Conclusion
Moab is a must-visit destination for any climbing enthusiast, offering breathtaking landscapes and a diverse range of climbing options for climbers of any level. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, Moab has something to offer. So pack your gear, book your accommodations, and get ready for an unforgettable climbing adventure in Moab!
About The Backcountry Pros
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